APPAREL INTERVIEW:

Fabrizio Spucches
Director, photographer [Italy]

 

On a bright, ordinary Monday morning, seated in a bar in Milan, with sunlight filtering through the windows and people easing into yet another week, Fabrizio Spucches opens up with us. Born in Catania in 1987, a director and photographer, Fabrizio has forged a powerful narrative driven aesthetic, also thanks to his long collaboration with the man he considers a true mentor, Oliviero Toscani. Through his work, which captures faces and human stories with an intimate and unfiltered gaze, he transforms reality into emotionally charged portraits, moving gracefully between irony and seriousness. Here, between a freshly squeezed orange juice and a knowing smile, he tells us about his world, his way of thinking. In what we consider one of the nicest Apparel Interviews, here’s a conversation that vibrates like an unexpected tune.

 
 
 



APPAREL INTERVIEW:

Fabrizio Spucches
Director, photographer [Italy]

 

On a bright, ordinary Monday morning, seated in a bar in Milan, with sunlight filtering through the windows and people easing into yet another week, Fabrizio Spucches opens up with us. Born in Catania in 1987, a director and photographer, Fabrizio has forged a powerful narrative driven aesthetic, also thanks to his long collaboration with the man he considers a true mentor, Oliviero Toscani. Through his work, which captures faces and human stories with an intimate and unfiltered gaze, he transforms reality into emotionally charged portraits, moving gracefully between irony and seriousness. Here, between a freshly squeezed orange juice and a knowing smile, he tells us about his world, his way of thinking. In what we consider one of the nicest Apparel Interviews, here’s a conversation that vibrates like an unexpected tune.

 
 
FABRIZIO SPUCCHES banner

 
 

 

Fabrizio Spucches Q&A

 

-First of all, let us begin with the simplest question and at the same time the most complex. How are you?

- Great. Kissed by the incredible Milanese sun this morning. Not even in Sicily do you get a sun like this in January. (Editor’s note, Fabrizio is facing the sun and is literally bathed in light as we speak). I am in a very optimistic phase. I think the best period of my life is about to begin. I always think that, ever since I was born. (laughs)

 

-Perfect, we cane relate. So, if you had to tell someone who does not know your work who you are, which image would you choose to speak for you?

- I would say the very first photo. Not the first one taken, but the first one conceived. It is an image made during the pandemic, a time when we truly had no more excuses, so looking ourselves in the mirror became almost mandatory, otherwise you risked going mad. That photo, which portrays me in a bathtub, was the first image of the Working Class Virus project, which started at home and then moved outside. That shot marks the moment when I decided how to begin my photographic journey. There I stripped myself bare in every sense and began asking myself why. Whenever you start a path, you have to confront yourself.

 

-And as a photographer, what are your whys, assuming there is an answer?

- That is exactly the point, there are answers, but they are provisional, transient. Some questions have no answer, and that is how it should be. The search for an answer can itself be the answer.

 

 

-When did you start to feel this pull toward photography?

- Late. At thirty. Before that I was probably swallowed up by my mentor Oliviero Toscani, a mentor but also a towering presence. I did my apprenticeship. During that time with him, I never thought of photography as a personal expressive path. But I knew how to wait, and the right conditions eventually emerged to try and begin this journey.

 

-In your projects, crisis often appears as a revelatory moment, from the pandemic in Working Class Virus, to war in The Last Drop, to the climatic and social catastrophes that run through your more recent works. Was there a moment when you realised your gaze would operate inside the fractures of the present, rather than around them?

- Good question. Let me open a parenthesis. Crisis was the key word of my university years. In 2012, a year marked by precarity, I was in Canterbury doing a postgraduate degree, and I made crisis the central concept of my research. I felt like Fellini in 8½ (Otto e Mezzo). Coming back to us, my works, as you rightly say, somehow confront a social crisis. I have learned never to grow attached to what I make. In fact I always feel a sense of incompleteness, of thinking it could have been done differently. This helps me grow, because those who are satisfied with what they do remain on the surface. Recently, with No Way, a project about migration, I have realised that this drive probably comes from my experience with Oliviero Toscani. Being with him felt like being with a superhero. I truly believed we could change the world together. Through him I perceived a sense of radicalism, almost of patriotism. I remain faithful to that approach, but I also think the time has come to address more personal, introspective themes, leaving social themes behind, at least for a while. My next projects will move in that direction.

 
 

-Let us talk about your project “Souvenir”. You choose an incredibly powerful symbol like the Madonnina and immerse it in the Darsena of Milan, turning an identity icon into a warning sign. How important is it for you to work with shared symbols, and where does the boundary lie, if it exists, between provocation and responsibility?

- Improvisation matters, but it is also a constant process of reasoning, observation, and reflection. Everything started from a request, in this case from a humanitarian association that asked me to create a project about climate change. At that time I felt like Greta Thunberg. I proposed placing a replica of the Madonnina in the Darsena in Milan, so that it would paradoxically look as if the city were flooded. The goal was to activate a fundraising campaign, it was 2022, for Pakistan, which was completely struck by a natural calamity and it was completely underwater. Here we return to the theme of crisis, because at a certain point this entire project, set up with a significant economic investment, everything organised, the mayor ready to come and take the first selfie, collapsed two days before the launch. Unexpectedly, Monsignor Borgonovo from the Veneranda Fabbrica del Duomo blocked it all, and I found myself alone. With a deep sense of injustice, not only for social reasons, obviously, but also on a personal level, allow me to say that. After so many resources invested for a good cause, because of the whim of a single person, nothing happened. Yet censorship is often a blessing in disguise. I start questioning the concept of commodification, which Borgonovo accused me of, and I went into their shop under the Duomo and discovered that the Madonnina existed in every possible form, even on liqueurs, on the Duomo sparkling wine, on perfumes, and so on. I bought a Madonnina for nine hundred euros and carried out the installation illegally. That is how the project evolved, in a very playful way. Unfortunately I cannot share the details, but in spring there will probably be a small development.

 

-In Home Swept Home, you stage everyday objects reshaped by a traumatic event like an earthquake, together with their surviving owners. What kind of emotional relationship is created, for you, between the object and the person? In this work are you trying to preserve the dignity of memory or of the future, where does your gaze position itself?

- Wow, you really did your homework. I tend to set myself toward the future. The project was unpredictable as an event, so everything was done and conceived in just a few days. I had been asked to create a project during the Milano Design Week, and while we were doing a site visit, the earthquake in Turkey happened, causing more than fifty thousand deaths. I began questioning the concept of home, having to align the project with Design Week, which is essentially a celebration of the idea of home. So why not overturn the concept of -Home Sweet Home- by bringing it into the furniture fair, showing household objects transformed by the earthquake. Other themes come into play, nature, ethics. I waited ten days to understand the death toll. After that, only the most disadvantaged people remained in the affected areas, trying to rebuild a future. By entering unstable houses to recover simple but vital objects, I tried to tell the story of their present and their future. A future that, in my view, is always, as I said at the beginning, tragically optimistic.

 

 

-Let us talk about your mentor Oliviero Toscani. The film you made, Oliviero Toscani. Chi mi ama mi segua, recently presented at MAXXI, builds an intimate portrait of Toscani through unpublished material and a direct dialogue between mentor and student, letting his own voice guide the story. In all the years you spent by his side, what is the most uncomfortable, and at the same time most necessary, thing Oliviero passed on to you?

- I will answer bluntly. The courage to always ask yourself why.

 

-Now, let’s spice it up with a dash of curiosity! What is a typical day like for you when you are not immersed in a project? Do you have a standard day and an ideal day? What is your favorite meal, and what can never be missing from your desk?

- I realise that Oliviero really brainwashed me, because only his quotes come to mind. He used to say that to feel free he needed to “chain himself” to a project. I think I am the same. There is no difference between the two kinds of days. When I am on vacation I struggle. The only way I truly make peace with myself without thinking about work is by doing spearfishing, but living in Milan makes that a bit difficult (laughs). My favorite meal is improvised, either in the morning or late at night. I have been seeing a nutritionist for four years now, and I lose an average of half a kilo per year. But I am always optimistic, ahahaha. Breakfast is the meal I manage to control best. Regarding my desk, there is always an empty notebook and some markers.

 
 
 

-Many of your works seem to stem from an ethical tension even before an aesthetic one. Avoiding the question what is art to you, I ask instead, when do you feel a work has succeeded, what signals tell you that?

- Basically there is never a definitive explanation in what I do. I try not to take sides. Art should not give answers but pose questions. It creates contrast, challenges different opinions, but accepts and respects them. For example, a project I am working on about the number 90 bus in Milan, called All You Can Eat, offers different points of view, debatable, acceptable, but certainly present, real, alive.

 

-And irony, what is it for you, both in daily life and in your work?

- A fundamental component of both myself and my work. It is a way to approach things lightly. Some things can only be faced with a laugh.

 

-Let us talk about the present. We live in an era saturated with images and urgencies. As an artist and communicator, what do you think deserves to be lived slowly today? Does slowness have value for you?

- I do not want to rail against the frenzy of our society, because unfortunately I ride that wave myself. I am literally hypnotised by TikTok, a creative experiment that is a perfect portrait of our society, where everyone can express themselves. Social media are the opium of contemporary peoples, but I do not criticise them, because they are an incredibly democratic and creative form of expression. Not by chance they are banned in countries under dictatorships. Of course they are a double edged sword, but everyone gets what they deserve. Apparently I deserve to be addicted to TikTok. Today, through a phone, you can see how the world is going. Then, at a certain point, you put it down and you dream. The moment when we are all equal is when we fall asleep. We do not do it consciously but, for me, the slowness you mention manifests there.

 

Here are our quick fire questions, our trademark.

-If you were a city, which would you be?

- Milan. I love Milan. I have been here for ten years and it is perfect. It is a reference point without being one. Connected to everything, it has always been a welcoming and generous city, especially toward those not born here. That sense of openness, for me, survives the homogenisation that is more evident elsewhere, Northern Europe, UK.

 

-If you were an object?

- Not a camera, enough of this obsession by those infamous photographers. (laughs) I would like to be Federico Fellini’s markers.

 

-If you were a camera lens?

- A 50 mm, the one I started with. I moved instinctively more with my legs than anything else, they were my zoom.

 

-If you were a geometric shape?

- (laughs) What kind of question is that. Let me think. A sphere rotating around a circle, creating a movement that, according to a Romanian saying, could be summed up as, you move like a piece of shit in a bucket of water.

 

-If you were a food?

- Pasta alla Norma.

 

-What is the artwork that struck you the most, it can be anything.

- A couple nights ago I was having dinner at the place of someone I met recently, a lawyer. On the wall there was a photograph, a large portrait of a blonde girl, disturbed, with red eyes from the flash, suffering, tragic, beautiful yet fragile. I have no idea who made that work, but I was hypnotised. It ruined my dinner but made my life better…

 

Photo courtesy by Diego Rigatti

 

-If you were a song or an album?

- Fisiognomica by Franco Battiato.

 

 

-And now, what’s a question no one has ever asked you?

- That is hard. Do you ask it often?

 

-No, it is the first time.

- Ah, lucky me. I would say, what makes you happy. Today I would have liked someone to ask me that.

 

-So, what makes you happy?

- Knowing that you have just become a father.

 

-Thank you, Fabrizio.

 
 

-In Home Swept Home, you stage everyday objects reshaped by a traumatic event like an earthquake, together with their surviving owners. What kind of emotional relationship is created, for you, between the object and the person? In this work are you trying to preserve the dignity of memory or of the future, where does your gaze position itself?

- Wow, you really did your homework. I tend to set myself toward the future. The project was unpredictable as an event, so everything was done and conceived in just a few days. I had been asked to create a project during the Milano Design Week, and while we were doing a site visit, the earthquake in Turkey happened, causing more than fifty thousand deaths. I began questioning the concept of home, having to align the project with Design Week, which is essentially a celebration of the idea of home. So why not overturn the concept of -Home Sweet Home- by bringing it into the furniture fair, showing household objects transformed by the earthquake. Other themes come into play, nature, ethics. I waited ten days to understand the death toll. After that, only the most disadvantaged people remained in the affected areas, trying to rebuild a future. By entering unstable houses to recover simple but vital objects, I tried to tell the story of their present and their future. A future that, in my view, is always, as I said at the beginning, tragically optimistic.

 

 

-Let us talk about your mentor Oliviero Toscani. The film you made, Oliviero Toscani. Chi mi ama mi segua, recently presented at MAXXI, builds an intimate portrait of Toscani through unpublished material and a direct dialogue between mentor and student, letting his own voice guide the story. In all the years you spent by his side, what is the most uncomfortable, and at the same time most necessary, thing Oliviero passed on to you?

- I will answer bluntly. The courage to always ask yourself why.

 

-Now, let’s spice it up with a dash of curiosity! What is a typical day like for you when you are not immersed in a project? Do you have a standard day and an ideal day? What is your favorite meal, and what can never be missing from your desk?

- I realise that Oliviero really brainwashed me, because only his quotes come to mind. He used to say that to feel free he needed to “chain himself” to a project. I think I am the same. There is no difference between the two kinds of days. When I am on vacation I struggle. The only way I truly make peace with myself without thinking about work is by doing spearfishing, but living in Milan makes that a bit difficult (laughs). My favorite meal is improvised, either in the morning or late at night. I have been seeing a nutritionist for four years now, and I lose an average of half a kilo per year. But I am always optimistic, ahahaha. Breakfast is the meal I manage to control best. Regarding my desk, there is always an empty notebook and some markers.

 
 

-Many of your works seem to stem from an ethical tension even before an aesthetic one. Avoiding the question what is art to you, I ask instead, when do you feel a work has succeeded, what signals tell you that?

- Basically there is never a definitive explanation in what I do. I try not to take sides. Art should not give answers but pose questions. It creates contrast, challenges different opinions, but accepts and respects them. For example, a project I am working on about the number 90 bus in Milan, called All You Can Eat, offers different points of view, debatable, acceptable, but certainly present, real, alive.

 

-And irony, what is it for you, both in daily life and in your work?

- A fundamental component of both myself and my work. It is a way to approach things lightly. Some things can only be faced with a laugh.

 

-Let us talk about the present. We live in an era saturated with images and urgencies. As an artist and communicator, what do you think deserves to be lived slowly today? Does slowness have value for you?

- I do not want to rail against the frenzy of our society, because unfortunately I ride that wave myself. I am literally hypnotised by TikTok, a creative experiment that is a perfect portrait of our society, where everyone can express themselves. Social media are the opium of contemporary peoples, but I do not criticise them, because they are an incredibly democratic and creative form of expression. Not by chance they are banned in countries under dictatorships. Of course they are a double edged sword, but everyone gets what they deserve. Apparently I deserve to be addicted to TikTok. Today, through a phone, you can see how the world is going. Then, at a certain point, you put it down and you dream. The moment when we are all equal is when we fall asleep. We do not do it consciously but, for me, the slowness you mention manifests there.

 

Here are our quick fire questions, our trademark.

-If you were a city, which would you be?

- Milan. I love Milan. I have been here for ten years and it is perfect. It is a reference point without being one. Connected to everything, it has always been a welcoming and generous city, especially toward those not born here. That sense of openness, for me, survives the homogenisation that is more evident elsewhere, Northern Europe, UK.

 

-If you were an object?

- Not a camera, enough of this obsession by those infamous photographers. (laughs) I would like to be Federico Fellini’s markers.

 

-If you were a camera lens?

- A 50 mm, the one I started with. I moved instinctively more with my legs than anything else, they were my zoom.

 

-If you were a geometric shape?

- (laughs) What kind of question is that. Let me think. A sphere rotating around a circle, creating a movement that, according to a Romanian saying, could be summed up as, you move like a piece of shit in a bucket of water.

 

-If you were a food?

- Pasta alla Norma.

 

-What is the artwork that struck you the most, it can be anything.

- A couple nights ago I was having dinner at the place of someone I met recently, a lawyer. On the wall there was a photograph, a large portrait of a blonde girl, disturbed, with red eyes from the flash, suffering, tragic, beautiful yet fragile. I have no idea who made that work, but I was hypnotised. It ruined my dinner but made my life better…

 

Photo courtesy by Diego Rigatti

 

-If you were a song or an album?

- Fisiognomica by Franco Battiato.

 

 

-And now, what’s a question no one has ever asked you?

- That is hard. Do you ask it often?

 

-No, it is the first time.

- Ah, lucky me. I would say, what makes you happy. Today I would have liked someone to ask me that.

 

-So, what makes you happy?

- Knowing that you have just become a father.

 

-Thank you, Fabrizio.

TU

Illustrator